What To Look For In A Healthy Puppy
When purchasing your puppy in person, there are certain things you willwant to look for to ensure that the puppy you are buying is healthy. This check list will offer you guidelines andsuggestions to help you make an excellent choice.
1- Does thepuppy have a clean, shiny, smooth coat without any skin rashes or lesions?
2- Does thepuppy have bright, clear, open eyes? Eyes should not have any discharge,be blood shot, or have strange coloring or yellowness to the whites of theeyes. The puppy should not squint or rub its eyes. Take notice ifthe puppy acts like it sees improperly.
3- Does thepuppy have a healthy appetite; ask thebreeder about feeding.
4- Does thepuppy have bloody diarrhea or vomiting? These are warning signs ofdiseases such as Coccidea, Giardia, or Parvo.
5- Does thepuppy have normal stools and regular urination? Remember that young puppiesthat have recently changed food or been weaned will have softer stools. Also teething may contribute to soft stools.
6- Does thepuppy cough or gag? These can be signs of kennel cough or collapsingtrachea.
7- Doesthe puppy continually lick the urinary tract opening? This could besigns of an infection.
8-Does the puppy have thick, colored, mucous drainage from the eyes, ears,rectal area or mouth? This can also be an indication of poor health.
9-Does the puppy limp or jerk up one leg; does it have an unsteady gait? These could be signs of hip or patellar problems.
10- Does thepuppy's activity level seem normal? Remember that most puppies sleep for2-3 hours at a time. When puppies are awake they should be energetic andexploring their surrounding with enthusiasm.
11- Is thepuppy playful and happy? Or are they weak and lethargic? Ask thebreeder about each pup’s personality.
12- Does thepuppy seem to be off on its own all the time? Puppies should be socialand wanting to play with their siblings or you. (A little bit of autonomyis ok)
13- Does thepuppy seem to have good body weight? Puppies should not look too skinnyand ribs should not be showing.
14- Does thepuppy have a large potbelly? This could be a sign of worms. Remember this is hard to discern between a just “fed” pup and a pup with adistended abdomen. Ask about the schedule and brand of de-wormersthe puppy has received.
15- Is thepuppy eating hard small kibble and drinking? Does it have a special nutritionalneeds?
16- Is thepuppy eager to come up and meet you? If a puppy seems reserved and shy itmight mean that the puppies have not been properly socialized. Or if they turn in circles constantly thepups may have been caged too much.
Provided by Little Bearer’s of Blessings 407 876 6657
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When to Call the Veterinarian
GO TO YOUR VETRANINARIAN or AN EMERGENCY CLINIC:
- Your dog is choking
- Your dog is having trouble breathing
- Your dog has been injured and you cannot stop the bleeding within a five minutes
- Your dog has been stung or bitten by an insect and the site is swelling
- Your dog has been bitten by a snake… any snakeYour dog has touched licked or in any way been exposed to a poison
- Your dog has been burned by either heat or caustic chemicals
- Your dog has been hit by a car, even if it seems o.k.
- Your dog has an obvious broken bone or cannot put any weight on one of its limbs
- Your dog has a seizure
- Your dog won’t be roused, wobbles when standing or won’t hold up its head.
- Your dogs temperature is 104 Your dog has been bitten by a cat, another dog or a wild animal
MAKE APPOINTMENT WITH VETRANINARIAN ASAP:
- Your dog has been injured and is still limping an hour later
- Your dog has unexplained swelling or redness anywhere
- Your dog’s appetite changes, wont’ eat or drink, or is always hungry.
- Your dog vomits repeatedly and can’t seem to keep food down or drools excessively while sleeping
- You notice a change in the urination or defecation like pain or blood or a very foul smell or has diarrhea for more than 2 days
- Your dog is scooting across the floor on his rump
- Your dogs energy level attitude or behavior changes for no apparent reason
- Your dog has crusty or cloudy eyes or excessive tearing or discharge
- Your dog’s nose is dry and or chapped, hot, crusty or runny
- Your dogs ears smell foul, has a dark discharge or heavy wax or is very itchy
- Your dogs gums are inflamed or bleeding, teeth look brown or breath could knock over a horse
- Your dogs skin is flakey, red, itchy or inflamed or is being chewed at certain spots
- Your dog coat is dull dry brittle or bare in spots
- Your dog has white silvery spots on his hair and it won’t come off
- Your dog paws are red swollen tender cracked or nails are split or too long
- Your dog is panting excessively wheezing unable to catch breath, breathing heavy or sounds strange when she breathsYour dogs temperature is 103 (101.5 is normal)
TIPS FOR HOUSEBREAKING
TIPS FOR HOUSEBREAKING
Your puppy has beenintroduced to paper training since they were 3 weeks old and will requirediligent effort on your part to train them to your preferences.
Always bear in mind that housebreaking a puppy requires consistent repeatedbehavior on YOUR part for your puppy to learn the expected action on theirpart.
Puppies need to eliminatefrequently, so as soon as the pup wakes in the morning, after a meal and afterevery nap, take the pup directly outdoors on a leash to do “his business”keeping in mind, every success will reinforce the desired behavior.
With positive training youemphasize teaching a dog what they should do to earn rewards, rather thanpunishing them for unwanted behavior.
Take the puppy to the sameplace each time, stay with him and give him 10-15 minutes to"perform". There should be nooutdoor play until the pup understands that the outdoors is the place to go torelieve them.
Using an expressionassociated with the action is very helpful in the teaching process. Choose your own words - " go potty"- "time for business" “let itrain” etc. Everyone should use the samephase when taking the pup outside.
When the same phrase is repeated over and over rather quickly the pup learnswhat it is you want.
Your puppy is a veryintelligent animal and is eager to please you. When your pup does what you've requested, heap adoring praise on yourpuppy and bring him back into the house immediately and give your “champ” alittle treat. Something special reservedfor “a job well done”. This treat willhelp your pup to associate his successful elimination outside with a tastyreward.
Pay attention to the signalsyour puppy may give you. This may bewhining, circling, and scratching the floor, sniffing at various places orgoing towards the door. IT'S UP TO YOUTO LEARN TO READ YOUR PUPPY’S MESSAGES !!!
Be patient and remember that you are dealing with a “ baby” with a small bladder,and you should expect to have some accidents until the pup is about 6 months old.When you are angry walk away and only return when you have a plan for positivestrategy.
When accidents do happen, DONOT RUB HIS NOSE IN IT, OR HIT HIM. Arolled up newspaper has no value in teaching a dog potty training. If you catch the pup in the action speak in afirm voice and tell him “NO, NO we go“use your potty phrase” outside and take the pup to the spot. If you do not catch the pup doing the dirtydeed, they will not understand the connection of the communication and doingtheir business in the selected spot.
The dog crate will be your most valuable asset in the house-training effort.
Dogs are den animals and they will not want to soil the sleeping area if theycan help it.
Pups will whine or bark from the crate when they need to go out, but they willdo that too if they just wants to be with you. This is what we call the "Puppy Con" and you'll have to learnto differentiate between them. Ignorethe message and you might be cleaning up a mess!
Training the puppies to "ring the bell"when they need to go out is a great way to teach everybody to pay attention tothe dogs needs. You'll need a 3'-4 inchlength of soft rope. Make a loop at oneend that will fit over the door knob and tie a great big knobby knot on theother end, so that the puppy has something to grab on to. Attach a group of little brass bells -available at dollar stores - above the knobby knot, so that they tinkle whenthe rope is shaken, then hang this "rope" over the door knob of thedoor going outside, so that it is low enough for the pup to reach.
When you are beginning the training with your puppy, each time you go out thedoor, reach over and grab the rope so that the bells ring, and say, "timeto do your business" or whatever word you have chosen.
Within a matter of weeks, the puppy will be ringing the bells on his own.
Little Bearer’s of BlessingsMale Yorkie vs Female Yorkie
Many people feel that a female Yorkie will make better pets than male Yorkies. This conclusion is usually based upon inaccurate information. We will take some of the common misconceptions of male and female Yorkies behavior and discuss what we have actually experienced. In discussing these differences we will be speaking in terms of generalizations. These generalizations of female and male Yorkies traits are like that of generalizations of female and male human traits. For every generalization there are always exceptions.
Female Yorkies are sweeter and more affectionate that male Yorkies. Our experience is that male Yorkies are usually more affectionate, exuberant, and attentive as compared to females. They seek your attention and are very attached to their people. They also tend to be more steadfast, reliable, and less moody. They are more outgoing, more accepting of other pets, and take quicker to children. When we have company we invariably have to put the females in another room until the company leaves. The female Yorkie may be less likely to wage a dominance battle with you, but she can be cunning and resourceful in getting her own way. She is much more prone to mood swings. One day she may be sweet and affectionate the next day reserved and withdrawn or even grumpy. (Sounds just like human females.) Most females will usually come to you for attention, but as soon as she has had enough, she will move away. Males are always waiting for your attention and close by.
Female Yorkies are more docile as compared to male Yorkies. In the dog pack framework, females usually rule the roost. Therefore they determine pecking order, and compete to maintain and/or alter that order. The females are, as a result, more independent, stubborn, and territorial than their male counterparts. Most fights will usually break out between two females.
Female Yorkies are easier to train than male Yorkies. Because female Yorkies are, more independent, stubborn, territorial and male Yorkies are easily motivated by praise, and are very eager to please; training a male can be easier than training a female. However, a male Yorkie can be easily distracted during training, as they just want to get to playtime!
Female Yorkies don’t display alpha behaviors such as “humping” and/or “marking”. Females are much more intent upon exercising their dominance by participating in alpha behaviors such as humping and in fighting. The only Yorkie we own that humps is a female. Just as males will urinate on top of where another animal has, so as to mark, the female will follow this same pattern. Neutered males rarely exhibit secondary sexual behavior such as humping, or marking or lifting their leg. Males that are neutered at an early age usually don't ever raise their leg to urinate.
Some of the behavioral traits that we have discussed above are a result of having multiple Yorkies. In a household that only has one pet may never experience these behaviors.
In our opinion, female Yorkies don’t make better pets than male Yorkies nor do male Yorkies make better pets than female Yorkies. One has to understand the differences and decide which sex better suits their lifestyle.
The other factor one should take into account is that male Yorkies tend to bond to the woman in the household and female Yorkies bond to the man in the household. If Glenda and I are sitting on the couch the males are with Glenda and the females are with me. If I go into the other room the females follow me and the males stay with Glenda. We have talked to other breeders to see if they have experienced this same phenomenon and many have replied with stories of women who have bought female Yorkies for themselves only to have the female Yorkie bond with their husband. Many of these women end up buying a male Yorkie for themselves.
Feeding your New Puppy
A watchful eye keeps puppies in line
Nutrients such as proteins, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals are essential to the health and well being of our puppy, including the development of healthy skin, coat, the protection of vital organs, tissues including the growth of the teeth and bones. Determining the right food for your pet should be made thoughtfully taking into consideration the unique needs of the breed, stage of life, activity level and special health issues.
You should continue to feed that same puppy food as the breeder for a period of time - a week or so - even if you plan to change to a different brand of food.
A puppy needs to be fed a specific amount several times a day at regular intervals until they reach 5 or 6 months old to supply them with adequate calorie and nutrition for rapid growth.
As the pup grows and increases in size the daily intake of food may change.
However, he may get diarrhea or gas if he is overfed, or if the food is changed to a new brand without gradually changing the diet over time.
He may also periodically “dislike his food' from time to time when cutting new teeth or if stressed. Don't be alarmed. If the kibble you are offering is a hard crunchy food then try wetting it with some warm water for about 10 minutes before feeding time to soften it. Or you may add a teaspoon or two of canned puppy food mixed well with the dry to wet your pup’s appetite.
Follow the manufacturer's directions for amounts written on the bag of food, and keep an eye on the pup's physical appearance and behavior.
Pups should not be fat, but their ribs or spine should not be sticking out either. Royal Canin for
Having the puppy on a regular feeding schedule makes housebreaking easier, because the bowel is activated by eating. If the food is left down for him to nibble at all day, then his bowel movement times will be very erratic which makes training very difficult for you.
You may find that the puppy is not eating every meal at about the 5 month mark, which is an indication that he is getting ready to reduce his numbers of meals. After 6 months of age, reduce the feedings to twice a day and at 8 months change to an adult version. Yorkies reach their full mature size at an earlier age because of their diminutive size.
If a 6 month old pup has not finished his meal in 10-15 minutes, remove it and refrigerate it until the next feeding time. Do not tempt him by adding tidbits to it to coax him to eat at this stage. This will only make him a picky eater, and cause many problems later in life.
If he is finishing the meal very quickly and seems to be still hungry, gradually increase the food, a teaspoon at a time, watching to make sure that he does not develop diarrhea.
Clean fresh water should be available at all times for him, except when he is crated for his sleeping. He knows how much water he needs to drink at any given time for digestion and thirst.
This is the guide to an introduction method for a dietary change
Note: Changing the diet may promote weight gain or may cause diarrhea.
1/3 New food with 2/3 Breeders Food (3 days)
1/2 New food with 1/2 Breeders Food (4 days)
2/3 New food with 1/3 Breeders Food (4 days)
Read the pet food label.
- Take time to read the label, pretty packaging does not guaranty a balanced nutrient rich food.
- The overall fat protein fiber and moisture content of the food is important – look for a health balance of nutrients and moisture.
- Primary ingredients: Look at the first five to eight ingredients and make sure there is a healthy combination of high quality proteins.
- Ingredients are listed according to quantity, the first eight are the primary ingredients you.
- As your dog ages, ( over 6) look for more fiber content as this will help the digestion and absorption of nutrients. Be aware that as our pet ages his needs will change, they become less active and need fewer calories than a younger pet.
- Evaluate the food brands by reading the labels and educate yourself on the specific needs of your breed. There are many good food sources to choose from, including a raw diet.
AN ESTIMATED 35% OF PETS IN THE
It is important to recognize that many of the foods that are good for humans to eat may be harmful even deadly for an animal to ingest. We must remember that animals, including Yorkshire Terrier puppies, have different metabolisms than we do, which makes it hard for them to properly digest a wide variety of foods.
Below is a list of the common food items that can pose a risk to the health of your Yorkie, and should, under no circumstances, be given to a dog to ingest:
- Alcoholic Beverages
- Bones from Fish, Poultry, or Meats
- Cat Food
- Chocolate, Coffee, Tea or Caffeinated products
- Citrus Oil and Extracts
- Fat Trimmings
- Grapes and Raisins
- Human Vitamins and supplements with Iron
- Large amounts of Liver
- Macadamia Nuts
- Moldy or Spoiled foods
- Onions (powders, raw or cooked)
- Pits from Peaches or Plums
- Potato, Rhubarb, and Tomato Leaves or Stems
- Raw Eggs
- Raw Fish
- Sugary Foods
- Table Scraps
- Yeast Dough
BRINGING PUPPY HOME
DOG-PROOF YOUR HOME
Whether your new friend is a puppy or adult dog, here are important tips to help keep him out of harm’s way: ( don’t let him up on the bar J )
- Keep household cleaners and chemicals out of his reach.
- Restrict access to plants that are dangerous to dogs: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy.
- Store breakable items safely out of the way.
- Hide or cover electrical cords so they won’t chew on them.
- Make sure all doors are always securely closed, all garbage receptacle are secure and inaccessible.
- Safely store antifreeze, engine oil, laundry detergents and lawn chemicals.
- Keep kids’ toys off the floor—since some parts may be small enough for your puppy or dog to swallow.
- Use a cover and/or protective fencing if you have a pool or hot tub.
- Evaluate your outside fencing for small holes or gaps that your puppy might get caught in, or go under.
- Confine your new puppy to a safe location while you are away from home.
You should have no trouble at all encouraging your children to play with your new dog. Still, you’ll want to supervise his first interactions with your kids and set playtime limits—15-20 minutes two or three times a day.
- Set age appropriate rules for your children for safe play with the puppy and boundaries for where the puppy is allowed.
- No rough teasing or playing. Tell your kids that tail-pulling and teasing can lead to bad habits like jumping up and biting.
- Be gentle. Loving behavior with your puppy will teach it to feel safe and welcome.
- Explain never to shout at the dog, even if he does something wrong because puppies can be startled by loud noises.
- Always attach the leash before you open the door to take the puppy outside.
INTRODUCING OTHER PETS
- Slowly and carefully ensure success.
- Initial introductions should be in a neutral area, one that the older pet is not commonly in, or outside the home to soften any demonstrations of territorial aggression.
- Keep them separated for the first few days.
- Keep puppy safely in his crate (or behind an expandable doorway gate) as you supervise their first meeting and for several days closely observe their interaction.
- After several days of sniffing each other out, let your resident pet enter the den while your new dog is out of his crate.
- Never leave these animals unattended until you are sure they are accepting of each other and have demonstrated appropriate behavior on several occasions.
- Give your older pet lots of attention during the first few weeks to minimize the effect of having to share the love with the new family member.
An appropriate amount of exercise will help promote your new dog’s good behavior and assist you in training him. Talk with your veterinarian about how much daily exercise your Yorkshire Terrier needs. Schedule family members to exercise your dog throughout the day.
BATHING YOUR PUPPY
Bathing puppy can be a very rewarding time for both of you. If you brush your puppies coat a few times every week this will be easy and enjoyable, if you have neglected to brush the pup, this experience wont be pleasant and can cause pain for both of you.
Your puppy has been given a bath right before you picked him up so they may not need another one for 2 or 3 weeks.
Purchase a quality dog shampoo in the Pet Supermarket or on-line Pet store. Chose a moisture rich product or one suited for long haired dogs with dark coats, like Black Diamond or Mane & Tail.
The Ph (acid/alkaline balance) of dog skin is different from human Ph. and therefore needs special products; so most “human” shampoo is NOT able to meet the needs of your Yorkie, to hydrate the hair and not damage the skin.
NEVER LEAVE YOUR PUP UNATTENEDED IN THE
Dogs have a natural temperature of 101.5 degrees Fahrenheit, which is already much warmer than humans and dogs feel heat more strongly than we do, so make the bath water about 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Test it the way you would a baby formula using your wrist or elbow. If it feels very warm, it's too hot! Watch for your puppy’s reaction to the temperature, if the water is too hot your pup will try to escape very quickly or may whine.
If you wish, you can put some small pieces of cotton into his ears. Brush your pups coat out before you start.
Always bathe the pup in the same area, use the same words to tell the pup what is happening and be gentle, your pup will like bathing if you are loving and considerate. Pretty soon when you say the word bath, and your dog will know exactly what is about to happen.
The following is my method for bathing a young puppy or dog- up to about 6 lbs.
Fill the kitchen sink with about 4 inches of warm water or to reach the under belly. Gently immerse the puppy into the sink, keeping his head above the water; very young pups will naturally put their heads down so keep one hand under the chin until you are sure your pup is holding the head up. Get the body soaking wet all over.
Pour the shampoo into your cupped hand and drizzle it over the pup's wet coat and work it in with your fingers and palms. Start at the rump and don’t forget to wash the belly area, genitals, feet and tail. Washing the head last.
With long hair coats try not to wash in a circle but run your fingers in the direction of hair growth making sure to actively cleanse the skin. Your fingers will naturally find some knots; try to release them with your fingers. This is an excellent time to feel the skin for bumps or crusty spots or anything that doesn’t seem normal. Inspect any areas that you discover or make a note to look again when the coat is dry.
When you have got the body all soaped up and the lather worked into the coat let the shampoo set on the hair for about two minutes.
Put your hand or thumb over the pups eyes and gently pour warm water from a cup over the head. Begin from behind the skull, remember tipping his nose up so that the water runs down and away from his nose and eyes.
Put a small amount of shampoo onto his skull and work it around his ears and neck and under his chin, keeping the soap out of his eyes and mouth.
Rinse his head twice with warm water from the cup, again pouring from back to front, as before, covering the eyes with your thumb or hand.
The reason we wash the head last is because water on the head results in automatic shaking of the whole body.
Unplug the drain and use the sprayer (check temperature) gently rinse starting at the rump and back, don’t forget that underbelly area! Rinse till the water runs clear. If your pup was into something really nasty or greasy wash a second time.
Fill the sink and rinse one more time, using a cup to pour the warm clear water over the coat. It is very important that all the soap is removed from the coat otherwise you will find what appears to be dandruff.
Apply a quality conditioner and let it set for 3 to 5 minutes. Work any stubborn knots out with a wide tooth metal comb while conditioner is still on the hair, this will allow time for the conditioner to soften the hair and release the tangles. Start on the tangles at the end of the hair and work it out as you get closer to the skin, work in small areas and completely comb out the area before moving on. Rinse well.
If you have a thick coat pup rinse lightly leave in a little conditioner and your combing and drying part will be a little easier.
Squeeze out excess water from the hair. Remove the pup from the basin and wrap him well in a towel, leaving the head exposed. Now with another small towel dry his head and face first.
While the pup is wrapped in the towel remove the cotton from the ears. Cleanse the inside of ears with an ear cleanser and a q-tip. Be careful not to insert the q-tip too far.
You can dry the puppy with your hand-held hair dryer set on low, never medium or hot. Keep the air flow about 12-14 inches away from the puppy, remembering his sensitivity to heat. It is very easy to burn a puppy with a hair dryer so be careful.
NEVER LEAVE A PUP UNATTENDED WITH THE DRYER ON.
Brush the hair while blowing dries the puppy. Just make sure the pup is secure from falling and you are in comfortable working position, you will be there for 20 minutes. The final step is combing through the hair placing the comb close to the skin. The hair should be knot free and very easy to run the comb through.
Puppies should not be bathed too often (every 2 wks)as this will strip their hair of essential oils necessary for healthy shinny coats. Don't bathe them unless they are dirty or very smelly. Dogs can be bathed more frequently (every 10 days) after 6 months of age.
Don’t forget to LOVE on your fresh clean puppy and …
….clean the kitchen sink with a cleanser or bleach.
*Brush – A good pin brush with a rubber back that is soft is an excellent grooming aid also because the pins are longer to reach through the coat. Do not buy a brush that has small balls on the end of the pins as they tend to pull at the coat and break it. Please do not use brushes with nylon bristles because they tend to break the hair.
*Comb – A good metal comb with the long teeth. They can be expensive but you won’t find any rough spots to tear your puppy’s coat. Remember to ALWAYS finish your grooming by COMBING through the coat. You will be surprised at the knots and tangles you will find that you missed with the brush. DO NOT ALLOW MATS OR TANGLES TO REMAIN IN YOUR PUPPY’S COAT!! Mats tighten with each passing day and can be very painful to remove. An ounce of prevention--------removing mats is not fun for you or your puppy.
*Scissoring – The only trimming that needs special attention is under the pads of the feet to remove the hair, on the top 1/3 of the ears and around the rectum. If you leave the hair on the ears and never trim them, then possibly the weight of the hair will not allow the ears to stand erect as they should be. Cutting the hair carefully around the rectum will help with cleanliness. For the boys: trimming the belly hair very short prevents urine from staining it and holding the odor.
*Teeth – Teeth should be cleaned regularly. Ask your veterinarian to recommend the best product and method for your dog.
*Ears – Yorkshire Terrier ears should stand erect as young puppies. To keep them erect they must be trimmed every few weeks by beginning about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the ear, carefully snipping or shaving the hair from the inner and outer surfaces of the ear. When all the hair has been snipped away, the edges of the ears may be trimmed, being extremely careful not to cut into the ear leather. This is best done in bright light, the contour of the ear is followed and any stray hair is then snipped away. The hairs inside the ear canal should be pulled out with tweezers. Apply a small amount of powder and the tweezers will grip the hair better. Do not insert the tweezers into the canal; just pull the hairs that are protruding.
*Nails – Purchase a good pair of small dog nail trimmers and Styptic powder or Stop Bleed. You can trim the nails yourself or leave it to your Vet or groomer..
*Haircuts – For ease of care a lot of people like to have the hair kept short in a “puppy cut” or even in a modified “Schnauzer cut”. Both can be done by a professional groomer or if you like, can be done by yourself if you have the time and inclination. Remember, if you make a mistake, hair grows back and you can try again.
It occurs mainly in toy breeds between 6 and 20 weeks of age. Stress is the leading cause.
The first signs are listlessness and depression. They are followed by muscular weakness, vomiting and/or diarrhea, tremors (especially in the facial muscles), and later convulsions, coma, and probable death. The entire sequence of symptoms is not always seen. The dog may simply appear to be depressed or he may be weak, wobbly and jerky or he may be found stiff, unable to coordinate or in a coma.
Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal, becomes chilled, is exhausted from too much playing, or has a digestive problem. These problems cause an added stress on the energy reserves of the liver and bring on the drop in blood sugars resulting in hypoglycemia.
TREATMENT Beginning at once! Treatment is directed at restoring blood levels of glucose.
- Wrap the pup in a heated warm towel, replace with warm towels as they cool off.
- Give the puppy some NUTRI-CAL ( one inch long) off the tip of your finger. If he is not swallowing place it under the tongue or rub on the gums to be absorbed. This will begin to bring the pup to a conscious state.
- Continue to give him Nutri-Cal and also water with a syringe about every 10 min until the pup is conscious and moving about.
- Once eating the Nutri Cal or Karo on its own, start to give the pup small amounts of canned dog food (we recommend Science Diet A/D )
CALL YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY IF THE PUPPY DOES NOT RESPOND AT ALL after 20 minutes of trying!
The pup may also need some antibiotics to combat secondary infections that can arise from the lowered immune system that is caused by the hypoglycemia.
If you do not have Nutri-Cal, honey or karo syrup can be used until you can get some Nutri-Cal. The dose is 1 cc every 10 min till recovered.
The large does of Nutri-Cal or syrup may cause some diarrhea to occur, but it is usually self limiting. You may also need to begin some pepto or biosyl to help him with diarrhea after a hour of recovery.
Prevent re-occurring attacks by making sure the puppy eats at regular intervals. He should have dry food and fresh water available at all times and should be fed canned food mixed with a little water and hard food at least 2 times a day. A daily vitamin should be given, (Nutri-Cal 1 cc 2 or 3 time a day) also cottage cheese or yogurt can be added to the diet.
Owners of toy puppies should not allow them to become overtired or chilled. Play time should be limited and controlled to prevent undue stress and tiring. Hypoglycemia must be offset by frequent feedings. A puppy, who does not eat frequently, for whatever reason, is heading for trouble. It is important that they eat…. so find something they like and feed it to them – Cooked hamburger, chicken, peanut butter, etc.
Science Diet AD high protein food (a prescription is required) can be purchased from vet in advance to keep on hand. This is an excellent source of immediate protein, it’s very soft and easy to dilute with hot water and syringe feed. Puppies and dogs LOVE it.
We do not guarantee against this condition but I will do all I can to help. Please call us 407-876-6657.
Preventing disease is extremely important for your puppy. The pup has had virus protection from his mother's antibodies which were present in the colostrom milk in the first 24 hours after birth; however by 8 weeks of age, this immunity has almost disappeared.
Your Yorkie has had its first set of puppy shots at 8 to 10 weeks of age to protect him against Distemper, Hepatitis, Kennel Cough, and Parvovirus.
This first inoculation is the beginning of prevention against the above mentions diseases and must be followed by two more inoculations administered 3 weeks apart, which confers immunity for a year. Without the full series of puppy inoculations your Yorkie will not be protected. Until your Yorkie has completed the series I recommend you prevent your pup from walking in areas where there is high dog traffic, just as a precaution.
The Rabies vaccine is given at about 20 weeks of age for most breeds. If your Yorkie is less than 4 lbs. or if you plan to breed your Yorkie THEN I RECOMMEND you wait until the pup is 8 months old before a Rabies vaccination is administered.
DO NOT give your Yorkie a 3 yr. Rabies vaccination or Rabies with Lipto. These inoculations are too strong and have caused many fatalities in small breeds.
The other preventative measure you may want to take is giving a Heartworm medication, which is a disease carried by mosquitoes and is common in
There is no vaccine or pill against
A flea protection (Frontline or Advantage) can be purchased from your Veterinarian that will provide much better protection than the OTC remedies. To protect your yard sprinkle used dry coffee grounds on the lawn where your pups spends a lot of time there. This easy remedy is disagreeable to fleas and they will leave the treated area.
Your Veterinarian will guide you in this matter, however I always recommend you do your own research and provide your pets with the best advocate - YOU.
VACCINATION POTENTIAL SIDE EFFECTS
Depression: May occur for the first 24 hours following a vaccination, if this persists after 24 hours call your vet.
Vomiting and/or Diarrhea May occur following vaccines but should not persist for more than 24 hours. If it does not go away CALL your vet for a return visit.
Welts, facial swelling or generalized shaking. Can be an allergic reaction. Call your vet immediately for instructions.
SAFE HAVEN – “DOGS ONLY” ROOM – A “PLACE” TO CALL HOME!
One of the best investments you will make is to purchase a "crate". A crate is not a cage - it’s a “home.” Crates are available at Target, Wal-Mart, Petco or Persupermarket and often can be found at a discount in the "for sale" column of your newspaper or on-line.
Most of them are plastic or metal, that allows the puppy to see everything that is going on. Open crates don’t provide the solitude and quiet that a puppy needs for a good rest, so cover the crate with a large towel or blanket (during the winter it will help hold the heat in).
Remember that your puppy is a baby and requires many hours of undisturbed sleep in his “home” just like an infant. We put infants in cribs for their safety and our security. So……DON'T FEEL GUILTY BECAUSE YOU ARE CONFINING YOUR PUP - --- DOGS ARE DEN ANIMALS ! and like to feel safe and enclosed in their den. The pup will use the “home” so it can get away from the cat, the visitor, or the noise, and feel safe in the only place in your home that is "for dogs only".
Pups can't get hurt while in the crate, they can't get into mischief when you're busy or at work, and they can't destroy anything important when left in the crate. On their own in your “home” they are amazingly creative and will find many (not so good) ways to enjoy their freedom. I don’t recommend you leave them crated for more than 6 hours at a time until they have mastered housebreaking.
The crate size is best when a little restricted, but big enough to stretch out comfortably. Leave crate doors open through the day and often you may find your dog has gone in to take a nap, in preference to the couch.
A crate is also a wonderful housebreaking aid too. Animals never want to 'soil' their den. Even 3 week old puppies will crawl away from the warmth of their mother to piddle on the newspaper 2 feet away. Be sure to listen for the wakeup cry after naps and early in the morning and take him outside right away. It’s imperative you rush him outside immediately to reinforce the success of going potty outside. Ignore that cry and you'll defeat your housebreaking attempts and have an 'accident' to clean up.
I suggest using a white bath towel in the crate for bedding in the beginning.
You and your family will have to make the decision where the pup will be sleeping. If the crate is put near a bed, the puppy often settles down much more quickly. However, it is your decision where to place the crate and the dog will adjust to its location in time.
If the puppy has an accident it can be easily laundered with a little bleach. When the bathroom habits are under control, you can substitute a cushion for more comfort and style.
Your first few nights with puppy will no doubt be noisy and may leave you sleep-deprived. Puppies may howl like a banshee when put to bed or when separated from you. Place the “scented” blanket in the crate as this will comfort the pup. Give a hug and a cookie and a firm "nite-nite" and then turn the lights out and that will let the pup know its time for bed. Plug your ears!! Occasionally holler "quiet" or “hush” but don't go to the crate, unless you feel that it’s been quite some time and the pup may need to go out for a potty break. Once the “night-night” signal has been given do not change modes and decide to play for a few more minutes, this will only confuse your pup and make your cues impossible for your pup to understand. Remember you are the PACK Leader, not your dog, they look to you for cues and will follow your lead.
During the next few months, pups still need morning and afternoon naps.
These should also be in the crate - not on the couch or the carpet.
He'll play very strenuously for a short time, then, like a baby, fall sound asleep. When this happens, gently pick him up, carry him to the crate and put him in with a quiet 'nite, nite' close the door and let them sleep.
When naming your pet think of places you have loved, or a favorite food, songs, flowers, hobby or colors, these can be part of the combination of words you create to make your pet name unique. The personality of the dog can guide you to an especially fitting name as well. Before filling out the paper work use the name for a week to see if it really is the right name.
Anakin Axel Airdog Arlo Apollo Ansley Annabelle Ariel Adelaine Abby Alley
Bugsy Beaumont Brinkley Buck Bear Belise
Czar Coby Cougar Cheynne Carona Callee Chloe Chenille
Dexter Dakota Demsey Dell Danica Daisy
Elvin Erckle Ellis Erasmus Elle Evie Emme Effie Eden Elaize Echo
Fleck Frenchie Fritz Finn Fionna Foxxy Francesca Fish Fancy
Guiness Gaspar Giorgio Gustav Gemma Gigi Georgette Ginger Goldie Gypsy
Huxley Hollis Hershey Harley Haley Hannah Hexi Honey Heiress
Ivan Iman Irrok Imlaki Inky Ibis Isabella Izzy Ivory Ivy Iris
Joules Jock Jasper Jackson Jimster Jewel Jorja Jacey Jacaranda Jazz Jinx
K ingston Kong Karz Kermit Kai Kallico Kayle Kalola Kinkz Kiwi
Lancelot Lark Linguini Luigi Lilly Lola Lexy Lacey Latte Ladybug Lexus
Marley Maxwell Moondoggie Monet Maddie MaryCruz Muffin Marrakech
Oscar Otto Otis Orly Olie Orlee Oreo Olivia Oliveoil Onyx
Picasso Pepper Pesto Percy Prancer
Q uazar Quincy Qito Queeni Quaint Qwenivere
Rocket Ringo Ramsey Rigatoni Razi Raine Rosey Ragdoll Rascal Remmy Roo
Sea Biscuit Sebastian Snickers Skippy Star Sullee
Tucker Tito Tibedeau Tango Tiki Talloola Tangeray
Urri Ugo Unger Umador Ursala Umatilla Urksey
Vinny Vox Vance Valet Vamp Violet Vivi Vienna Velvet Venus Vimsey
Wallace Wiggins Winston Wildman Winnie Wynonna Wynette Winky
Xavior Xanman Xan Xanie
Yardley Yoshi Yancy Yamaha Yevette Yellow Yannis Yasmin
Zack Zane Zeus Zayzel Zolster Zoya Zonnet Zsa Zsa Zancy Zoe
“Sugar Dancer” was named because she was always giving kisses and so she became “sugar” . When she was a puppy she would dance around and around trying to impress us… and she did. She is my oldest and sweetest Yorkie… she is her name!
“Cindalini’s Blue Velvet” was the softest puppy I have ever felt, and hoping she would be our blue ribbon girl, became our inspiration for her name.
Hopefully this will help you to choose a perfectly fitting name for your new puppy that is unique and meaningful to you. Be careful what you choose as the pups really do personify their name. Our first Yorkie was a gift to my son who was a star wars nut and named his dog Chewbacca, and shortened it to Chewy, and she did… shoes, furniture, carpet…. need I say more.